2018 – Trekking in Nepal
Sunday 4th March – Arriving in Kathmandu
Travelling on the Silk flight to Kathmandu was a nightmare, really packed and disorganised. We were not looking forward to our arrival and the whole business of getting visa’s etc., as it was hot and sticky when we arrived.
Whilst there were a lot of people getting visa’s, the system that was in place meant that you moved along quickly. Nepalese security arrangements meant that your luggage was scanned as you left the immigration hall and your baggage ticket checked to make sure you had the right one as you left the airport.
We were soon out in the Arrivals Hall which was that amazing hectic buzz of excited human activity with people four or five deep all wanting to help you. What a relief to see the Explore agent Sudarshan (call me Su) and get into a mini bus. There was some shunting around to get out of a dark and congested car park and then we plunged into a city devoid of street lights with no shops apparently open. The road was a mass of potholes and there was very little traffic. This was such a total contrast to Singapore.
We arrive at an Eastern European feeling hotel, the Yellow Pagoda, where there were lots of men in suits with telephones at their ears and little external light. We book in and went up a rickety lift to the fifth floor to our room.
The room was within an internal veranda with no outside windows. The window was overlooking the corridor and bizarrely there was a window between the bedroom and the ensuite bathroom !
Once we got used to the partying in the corridor outside our window we slept. Not the worst hotel we have stayed in but a bit down market from what we have had so far.
Monday 5th March – Kathmandu
The day was hot and after breakfast we met five other members of the group at a trek briefing meeting. They were Raz (72) and Jane 6(8) travelling together and Andy, Ian and Diane all in their fifties and single. There were two others not yet arrived.
Su was very explicit about what we needed on the trek and went through matters in great detail making us think about whether we needed four season sleeping bags, sleeping bag liners and gaiters to survive the next nine days and eight nights.
Graham’s two season sleeping bag and Janet’s three season sleeping bag sounded vulnerable although we did have liners!
We keep quiet and decide to tough it out not really knowing how cold ‘it’ would be.
In the morning we were taken on a city tour by a tubby little Nepalese guy who was a local to Katmandhu. He took us first to Asan the spice market in the old quarter where we saw the earthquake damaged Fish Temple.
Previously a buzzing neighbourhood, the small narrow streets are still buzzing with tiny shops, temples and shrines. There were lots of people trying to sell and also a lot of dust, evidence of the 2015 earthquake damage that is very much around us.
We wandered down to Indra Chowk where the shops were more diverse and less busy, here there were more temples with people worshipping.
One very old temple had lots of pigeons and we were invited in spinning the prayer wheels before some ladies became agitated and wanted us gone when the priest came.
Beyond the temple was a square where clay pots for lamps and chai were being sold.
The highlight of the area Haunuman-Dhaka Durban Square a world heritage site which was the royal Nepalese residence until the 19th century and where important ceremonies, such as the coronation of the Nepalese monarch, took place.
The palace was decorated with ornately carved wooden windows and panels and restoration work was everywhere.
The palace of the King of Nepal with its state rooms and garden with swimming pool had been damaged by the earthquake but with funding from China and USA it was being renovated.
The Durbar Square had other beautiful Hindu and Buddhist temples and shrines built in the pagoda style embellished with intricately carved exteriors and wooden interiors dating back to 12th century.
We stopped at the temple of the living god who is a pubescent seven year old girl who had to live within the building only being allowed to be seen by the public twice a day.
We duly waited and glimpsed her but had a more precious view when she travelled out in a litter on holy days on our return ten days later.
We walked down to the square where all the hippies had hung out in the 1960’s and 70’s something Raz reminisced about and went through a gateway to New Road near to the stadium where our minibus was waiting.
We returned to the hotel and picked up Kate whose plane had been delayed. Our other fellow traveller never appeared so we were a comfortable eight.
We drove through a very congested part of the city to Boudhanath Stupa an enormous white circular structure with a two sided face and penetrating eyes and flags fluttering in the breeze.
It was startling and a contrast from the ruined temples of the morning. We had lunch on a roof overlooking the square and then walked around the circle of buildings surrounding the stupa including a golden temple.
After lunch we visited the Pashupati Nath Temple and the Guheshwari where people were holding ceremonies before cremating their loved ones.
It was fascinating but even though we were with lots of others it felt a bit intrusive.
On return to the hotel we walked the block and found a nice place for a good coffee.
In the evening we all met up for a nice meal with Su and reflected on the unusual day. Andy whose son had died as a young child was particularly affected by seeing the cremations.
Tuesday 6th March – Kathmandu to Pokhara
Finding any logical way around the hotel is challenging. When we come out of our lift we have to cross a indoor scooter park to access the dining room beyond reception. The dining room is closed and we are redirected up to the conference room on the fifth floor for breakfast where we feel like second class citizens obviously an inconvenience for the staff who are more interested in their incoming conference guests; confusing but quite amusing.
The day is hot as we make our way out of Kathmandu climbing up to the rim of the hilly bowl that contains the cities of the Kathmandu valley. Progress is slow and dusty due to extensive road works repairing three year old earthquake damage.
The buildings that line the road are interesting trading as a variety of shops, cafes and workshops and people living immaculately with the unending dust that swirls around them.
Once we have climbed up to the edge of the bowl spaces between buildings increase and views open up of small fields cultivated or grazed and we are shown a busy brick factory that serves the western end of Kathmandu. Here we get views of the mountains ahead.
After we cross the pass the road descends steeply through a series of hairpin bends rapidly and we see ahead of us on the twisty road down in the valley with traffic queuing ominously in both directions.
We queue slowly down into the deep river valley and see scattered buildings more stone and rustic in appearance beside the road and the dusty valley sides where the soils is held in place by scattered ‘sal’ trees some sort of rowan tree.
We queue down the main road for two hours the traffic slowly moving easier as we travel west stopping for a coffee/toilet break at a roadside café.
We carry on following the wide river valley passing through large towns and villages bustling with activity.
Outdoor clay ovens provide hot food for travellers.
A lot of the traffic turns off south to Chimpong and the going gets easier. After crossing the river we have been following which turns to flow to the south we stop at a pleasant restaurant for lunch where we can relax.
There is a great view back over the river far below us and back up the valley to the east.
After a leisurely lunch we drive a further two hours to Pokhara where we book into a very comfortable hotel where we have our first views of snow covered mountains from our balcony.
We are then free to wander around this lakeside city before eating with our group. We are advised to enjoy ourselves as drinking alcohol over the next few days whilst trekking is seen as hazardous !!
Wednesday 7th March – Pokhara to Ghandruk
As soon as we were dressed we went up on the roof of the hotel and viewed the many snow capped mountains
The previous evening we had been provided with two ‘trek’ bags. We now had to repack six bags, our two bags to leave behind at the hotel; two for the support staff (porters) to carry; and our two small rucksacks.
It felt very exciting to at last be starting off on the trek especially when we saw all the identical red kit bags being loaded on to the top of the mini bus.
The journey took us on a road that was being enlarged and consequently was very bumpy and busy.
As we left the outskirts of Pokhara many of the villages had small walled fields but as we rose out of the valley these became small terraces.
After an hour and a half we reached the town of Biethanti where we were joined by the support staff. We transferred from our bus into two Land Rovers.
The Land Rovers jolted their way up the valley to just below Ghandruk where we disembarked and walked slowly for half an hour up the stony track to the village and our tea house.
Here we had lunch and were allotted rooms. We were surprised to have ‘en-suite’ rooms, a toilet, leaky basin and non-functioning shower and a constant drip !
In the afternoon we were taken to the visitors centre where we shown a video about the conservation of the Annapurna region which was interesting if rather soporific.
Outside we met some ladies who were having a meeting about their participation in International Women’s Day, men seemed to be involved as well !
From here we walked to a small Buddhist Temple where Su explained about the elements depicted in the flags. Blue- sky/universe, white -air, red- fire, green – water, yellow – earth. It was interesting and reinforced our scanty knowledge.
Finally we visited the village museum which had simple notices about various village implements.
All the time we were surrounded by deep valleys and teasing glimpses of mountains above the clouds. We return to our hotel for tea and biscuits and dinner at 6.30. and then an early night.
The pattern for the next nine trekking days were similar; an early start with an option for breakfast of Porridge or Pancake; Boiled/Fried Egg or Omelette; Toast or Gurung Bread to finish off. All washed down with tea, proper tea or proper strong tea.
We would then set off walking no later than 8 am. doing most of our walking before lunch with stops for drinks breaks wherever our fancy took us. On longer days we would also walk after lunch. This inevitably led to some long inactive afternoons and evenings not always warm enough to stay outside.
Thursday 8th March – Ghandruk to Chomrong
The day started with this view of Machhapuchhre.
The weather was hot, later it clouded in and rolls of thunder were followed by torrential rain.
We awoke at sunrise and saw the sun gradually shine on the Annapurna range. There was music playing in the temple which made a very calm start to the day. We packed our bags and had some breakfast before starting today’s twelve kilometre walk to Chomrong crossing the Modi river.
We climb up into the village proper and walk through down endless stone steps to the wire bridge over the river Kimrong Khola.
Our porters are ahead of us and we see them cross the bridge
From the river the path goes steeply up to a ridge with lovely views to the village of Taulung.
From here we contoured around with the sky darkening, eventually the rain and hail came and our rain gear was well tested as we descended to Chomrong tea house.
As we were welcomed the heavens really opened with lightening and rain thudding on the roof.
When the rain eased we ventured down to the next building, a cafe and had a coffee before tea and a lot of ribbing between Graham and Raz.
Our accommodation was adequate and we slept well.
Friday 9th March – Chomrong to Dovan
The day was hot then a repeat of yesterday’s weather clouding over with rain in the afternoon.
The sky is clear and we can see the snow being blown off the 
top of the mountains ahead
Chomrong was a different place with the sun shining and we enjoyed breakfast outside.
We descended out of the village passing oxen and fellow walkers descending down steep steps to Chomrong Khola river.
We cross the long suspension bridge where several paths meet and there were many more people on the path aiming for the Annapurna Base Camp so we anticipate having to share rooms at the tea houses.
The path then climbed steeply, lots and lots of steps through bamboo forest, it was quite hard going and we were pleased to stop for a break at the top before contouring ‘Nepalese Flats’ on a lovely path which suddenly dipped down via steps to Bamboo Lodge where we had noodles for lunch.
The sky clouded and we undulated on for another hour to Dovan, 2,600 m.
Just before arriving it started to rain heavily and this time we were all more prepared.
Janet found a hot water shower which she worked out. Hot water did sprinkle out but a cold stone floor did not enhance the experience but she did feel cleaner.
We had the usual meal a choice of noodles, curry or omelette eaten in a cold eating room and we then go to bed with thunder rolling around the mountains.
As expected we were sharing four males and four females which resulted in a disturbed night for Graham but with double duvets he could bury in and smother out most of the sounds of snoring.
Saturday 10th March – Dovan to Deurali
The day started very cold and sunny and it clouded in later.
Janet had an ‘alright’ night considering four of them were sharing, but, wearing cut offs, underestimated the cold start.
We started walking at 8.00, Janet cold as we walked up mainly in shadow with the river below through woodland with the occasional rhododendron flowering and lots of primula and clouded yellow butterflies.
We saw vultures soaring high above and magpies.
We stopped to view the Weeping Wall waterfall which was spectacular as the water was spouting out of lots of fissures in the rock face.
We continued contouring up towards a tea house where we had a drink and biscuits to ward off altitude sickness.
From here there was a bumpy downhill muddy bit where Graham managed a spectacular slip landing on his bottom in the mud, unhurt except for a small cut on his elbow and very muddy trousers !
The last bit to Deurali and Dream Lodge was uphill.
We stopped briefly in the Hinku cave at 3100m before descending to our destination.
At Deurali we sat out in the sunshine eating lunch before sorting rooms, the men all in together and Janet and Jane, Kate and Di sharing two rooms.
Having been so cold the previous evening we put our thermals on after tea; read, wrote and had a lively game of rummy before going to bed at 9.00.
Sunday 11th March – Deurali to Machhapuchhre Base Camp
We left Deurali Tea House on cold chilly morning with no regrets as although the toilets clean they were minimal and there was no basin (cleaning teeth we had to spit on ground!).
We climbed slowly up the valley as Jane was not feeling
well.
It was an undulating path with more people around who we passed and who passed us. One elderly group of South Korean had with them an old man who claimed to be 74 yrs old much to Raz’s annoyance who thought he was the oldest one doing it.
This gave us time to view the ever changing snow covered mountains above us and the Buddha stain on the holy mountain and wild bee hives
One of the reasons for our early starts we were told was that there was a risk of avalanches later in the day when the sun had been on the ice fields.
Beyond the Avalanche area we enter the gateway to the sanctuary with towering snow covered slopes rising above us.
Beyond it is cold and icicles hang in the hillsides and steams are frozen.
The sun is out before 11 and we warm up.
It is still bright and sunny by the time we arrive at 11.15 the Machhapuchhre Base Camp at a height of 3,720m.
That was it for the day and although other groups were going on it was Explore’s policy not to ascend more than 500 metres in any one day to avoid altitude sickness.
One of the groups was our South Korean friends who had admitted that in Korea you count your birthdays from the day you were born when you are one year old; so Raz was delighted he was the same age as their oldest trekker not younger. Worth a photo.
It was frustrating though to have to spend from the whole afternoon in the cold and damp. As part of lunch we ate strong garlic soup good for altitude sickness as it thins the blood.
The chance of a walk diminished as snow fell and clouds came down.
We wrote and read and had thermals on by 4.00. Eventually it was time for tea, a game of cards and the sorting of clothes in preparation for the early start in the morning at four thirty.
Monday 12th March – Into the Annapurna Santuary to the Annapurna Base Camp
The weather was cold and clear with a hard frost. The sun rose about six then as the afternoon progressed mist rose and obscured views of the mountains.
We were up at 4.00 am, had breakfast at 4.30 and left at 5.00 with Khazi leading the five of us who had been going well. Raz, Jane and Diana waited to come up with Su at a slower pace.
We set off quickly Khazi keen to get us up to the sanctuary before sunrise. Maybe too quickly and Graham at the front slowed the pace down a bit until we got into a rhythm we were all comfortable with. In spite of the lack of oxygen we still made rapid progress.
It was very dark so head lamps were essential and looking back you could see lines of these little lights ascending the hill.
With a thin moon the stars were amazing and as we turned up the valley into the Sanctuary the light started to filter onto the snow clad mountains.
The light shining over Fishtail and then the other peaks until soon the tops were being picked up by the sun.
It was magical.
It was exciting reaching the gateway to the Annapurna base camp and then walking past the tea houses to the highest point, the edge of the crater-like ridge. There the large glacier and moraine field became visible.
Prayer flags were fluttering in the wind, it was cold and there were a lot of people mainly Koreans posing.
Gradually the sun lit up the whole range and it was exciting when the rest of the group arrived and lots of photos were taken.
The newness and smoothness of the snow was astounding as was watching it being blown from the peaks above.
We went down to a tea house to have a welcome hot drink before taking time to wander high above the base camp around the memorials to lost climbers, enjoying the sunshine, stunning views and sense of achievement; without loads of people.
The journey back to Machhapuchhre Base Camp is equally stunning looking ahead to a wall of snow clad mountains running north of Machhapuccre.
We returned to MBC for lunch and then a long afternoon.
Some of us did short walks to keep warm and on one of these we found some tame Himalayan pika scurrying around (hamster like).
After a meal we were happy to get off to bed.
Tuesday 13th March – Descent to Bamboo LodgeThe day started cold around -50 but as we descended rose quickly to 200 before clouding over. The air was clear and sharp over the Sanctuary.
It was cold as we set out from the Machhapucchre Base Camp but a good pace was kept and as we descended we quickly peeling off layers as the sun shone on us.
Returning the way we had climbed up was rewarding as we were not tired and could enjoy the scenery more.
Even being able to identify the spot of Graham’s fall from grace !
The path was lovely with the sound of the river below and rhododendrons flowering above the scrub.
We stopped for a break at Tiptop and saw Langur Monkeys in the trees. As we walked through shady woodlands there were Primula’s everywhere.
We had lunch at Deurali where we stayed on the way up. It was good to see it in the sunshine.
As we remembered from walking up, the next bit of the path to Bamboo Lodge was delightful, winding down, crossing streams, walking on ridges with the occasional flowering rhododendron catching the light.
On arrival at Bamboo we couldn’t believe how much descent we had made and consequently how much we had climbed up three days before !
The availability of accommodation at Bamboo Lodge meant we did not have to share rooms with others and hence had a good night’s sleep.
Wednesday 14th March – Bamboo Lodge to Jhinnu Danda
The day started cool and misty, before warming up and becoming humid.
It was nice to be sleeping and sorting our bags out together again.
After leaving Bamboo we made an initial ascent before going downhill listening to birds, the Black Capped Sibia and a Himalayan Cuckoo who has two calls apparently! We heard them both.
After we had crossed the Chomrong Khola we navigated the many steps up to the tea house we had stayed at on the way up.
On the ascent of the ‘staircase’ a Lammergeier, a bone cracking bearded vulture, was circling over our heads.
Although we may have seen them in the Pyrenees we had never had one so clearly in our sights before.
With relief we had lunch under a hot sun in the tea house garden.
We then steeply descended down to the lovely village of Jhinnu Danda and a surprisingly nice hotel that Su had kept quiet about.
Definitely an hotel and not a tea house.
We had tea and then six of us went quite a long way down to the river where there were some hot springs busy with tourists. There were a lot of people and two pools, luckily we managed to go in the top pool and shared it with only a few French trekkers.
It was warm and relaxing lying in about a metre of hot water chatting, looking up through the trees and over and down to the lovely river below. The climb back up to the hotel was disappointing after a full days trekking but was pleasant enough.
Back at the Hotel, hot showers and a beer were a treat before supper, cards and bed.
Thursday 15th March : Jhinnu Danda to Pokhara
The day started misty and warm.
Descending from the hotel after a good night’s sleep we crossed the Chimrong Khola river and follow the main river south towards Simai where we are to meet our transport and end out trek.
As we descend and cross the river on a wooden bridge we saw lots of birds, a Brown Dipper, Himalayan Redstart, Green Back Tit, as well as more Black-capped Sibia and Common Hill Cuckoo.
The path undulated beside the river and in places had lots of loose stones that we weren’t used to, but was still pleasant to walk on..
As we neared our destination, Simie, the small holdings were more established and prosperous with small fields full of cabbages, radishes, corn, a cow or boar or two and lovely colourful flowers, bougainvillea, red and yellow poinsettias and geraniums and lots of butterflies.
Just before Simai we joined an earthen track with cars driving along it a bit of a shock after a week of no motors!
Ten minutes down the track two land rovers picked us and the staff up and took us down the valley for lunch and then on the bumpy track to our bus on the main road.
An hour and half on a still bumpy road and we were back in the Hotel Batika Pokhara and our nice rooms with balconies.
Before we could scrub up we thanked the support staff, Khazi and Rabindra for all their hard work and presented them with envelopes and money.
They in return gave us all a scarf, a nice touch.
Much welcomed lovely showers, a nice meal at Moondance café, on to a bar for cocktails and in bed at the daring hour of eleven o’clock.
Friday 16th March : Pokhara
It was clear and the sun was hot and got hotter. The view from the roof of the hotel was still here!
With a day to ourselves we took a taxi to the University Campus, Prithvi Narayan, and the Natural History Museum.
It was set in a small old building on the university campus which itself had view out across the city to the mountains
It had a very 1950’s feel about it with a magnificent butterfly collection assembled by Colin Smith a British lepidopterist containing over 650 species of butterflies set out in wooden slide drawer cabinets.
It was informative about the Gurung area in which we had been trekking and good for reinforcing knowledge of natural sightings in the mountains. There were lots of wall paintings, charts and models.
We met a man who had worked there and had spent a year at Kent University doing a tourism and conservation degree and was returning to see if he could better promote the museum.
We then went to the Bindyabasin Temple set on the hill with lots of people worshipping both Buddhist and Hindus.
We returned through the old town and were fascinated by the old three storied shops come homes and the lack of traffic something soon remedied when we returned to the main road back to the lakeside.
We had lunch back in the tourist area and a chill out at the hotel. We went for a walk around the lake before spending half an hour or so shopping to no avail.
We then joined the others for a nice meal overlooking the lake as the light faded and the lights came out across the hills, it was magical.
They had spent their day boating out on the lake and visiting the Japanese Peace Temple on the hill overlooking the lake before shopping.
Saturday 17th March : Pokhara to Katmandhu
It was a hot and sunny day for the seven a half hour journey back to Katmandhu and the Yellow Pagoda Hotel.
We repack our bags and return the trekking bags to Su. They were inferior bags and the straps on Grahams had broken first day!
The journey back up the valley to Katmandhu is interesting with traditional buildings and a discrete riverside cremation.
Our stop for lunch at a roadside restaurant was definitely better than the service area that Su had tried first but it was too crowded.
A revisit of Durbar Square saw us buying some prayer rattles for the family before we had our final meal with the group.
There was a presentation of our monetary gift to Su who really had been a wonderful caring guide.
The restaurant was in the backpacker’s area and reflected the typical tourist place with inferior quality Dhal Bhat, unforgiveable!!
A few of us then went on to a noisy bar with live music that was a different way of concluding our time together as a group.
Sunday 18th March
Katmandhu and Patan
Katmandhu was hot, dusty and sunny.
We made a final pack of our bags before leaving them in the hotel luggage room when we checked out.
With Di, Ian and Katie departed and Raz and Jane soon to do so, we went with Andy, taking a taxi to Patan an ancient city, one of the three cities of the Katmandhu Plateau.
It was a microcosm of Katmandhu and had not suffered as badly in the 2015 earthquake. It had a Durbar Square with temples, a palace, and stupa.
It was being renovated as the 2015 earth quake had damaged it. Interesting and well signed and again it showed the amazing intricate craftsmanship of the wooden buildings.
We visited the palace and a museum that allowed us to get up close to the upper levels of the buildings.
Whilst having coffee on one side of the square we watched fascinated as a team of people mixed concrete with an old motor mixer carrying amazing loads of sand and stone around on bags strapped across their foreheads.
We wandered through the old quarter visiting the Golden Temple and discovering a back street stupa.
We walked back the three kilometres into Katmandhu crossing the river that separated the cities.
We grabbed some pastries and said our goodbyes to Andy before going to the Garden of Dreams, a very formal ‘English’ garden, where we spent the rest of the afternoon chilling out in its lovely calm atmosphere.
At about five o’clock we left the park and bought some mini prayer flags as presents.
As we were walking back to into the backpacker’s area to eat we met Rabindra who was so pleased to see us. He took us to his friends Vietnamese Pho bar restaurant where he treated us to a bowl of Chicken Pho.
It was a lovely thing to do, although we were suspicious of his motives and concerned at what he was spending on us. (When we got home he emailed us regularly trying to get us to recommend him to our friends for Nepalese craft items and Himalayan treks.)
With little time to spare, our taxi to the airport was due at eight, we walked briskly back to the hotel for a quick change in the toilets.
Su arrived to say goodbye. Our taxi arrived, plus guide, and took us to the chaotic airport where even after numerous checks we still had plenty of time before boarding our flight to Hong Kong at 11.15pm.
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