World Wide Webbs

2022 Our Mountain Break

Tuesday 30th August – Home to Plymouth

It is a hot sunny day as we quietly pack the van, swim at Kiberick and leave home around 4pm.

We drive to the Barbican in Plymouth where we buy some fish and chips which we eat overlooking the quay. After our supper we drive around to the Ferry port and board the Pont Aven ferry which leaves at 8pm. We sit near the swimming pool reading before going to our cabin and sleeping until our arrival in Roscoff.

Wednesday 31st August – Roscoff to Lalinde

We are awoken on the Pont Aven by a merry Breton dance tune. It is 5.30 a.m. French time and after coffee, croissant and orange juice we are off the boat and by 7.45. a.m. driving towards Rennes.

Driving at a steady 65mph we make good progress in the sunshine through familiar landscape albeit on improved roads to Parthenay.

We stop here and spend some time wandering around the fascinating medieval old town with its old gateways and a castle where we sit and eat our lunch in its grounds.

After lunch we follow the winding streets back up through the medieval town, with its heraldic flags, to the modern square where we are parked and recall stopping here for lunch many years ago.

We leave the town and head south to the Dordogne using small country roads a really confusing route but lovely countryside that we want to explore in the future.

We also past a recycled telephone box being used as a book swap!

We eventually reach our intended municipal campsite in Lalinde at 6.10p.m., rather jaded. It is hot and we are thirsty, so we walk quickly to the nearby Supermarket which is just closing, grab a few things and take a beer to the canal side in the town for a quiet drink watching the sunset.

Unfortunately in our hurry to get around the supermarket which had closed and was trying to chuck us out we had picked up malt beer which did not quite hit the spot.

Thursday 1st September – Lalinde

We awake to a cloudy morning after a warm night. We slept ok and it is nice to wake up and be able to be collecting croissants and baguette for breakfast.

We walk into the town along the canal over a beautiful floral bridge and visit an unhelpful tourist office. We find a Tabac, buy a map of the area and take it to a bar on the market square where over a beer we plan our afternoon.

We buy some fruit and cheese, beer and sausage, and find a bright and cheerful straw hat for Janet before returning to the campsite for lunch in the sunshine as the cloud fades away and the sun comes out.

This is a lovely site. We have a pitch beside the wide shallow Dordogne River looking at the numerous Swans, Ducks, Large and Small Egrets, Cormorants and Greylag Geese that are living in the shallows.

There are also Pied and Grey Wagtails, Herons, Crows, Dippers, and even a Kingfisher to entertain us.

After lunch we walk east along the river through fields of maize, flowers and curiously Kiwi fruit, in the hot sunshine. The road follows the river until it joins the canal at Mauzac where to our dismay there is nowhere to get a drink or an ice cream as nowhere is open.

So we return to the camp site along the canal past a prison that straddles it and through the field centre that is opposite the site. We spend a quiet evening sitting by the river, cooking our tea on the fire bowl.
The setting sun throws lovely colours across the river

Friday 2nd September – Lalinde

The day starts with light rain, spits and spots, and then it turns sunny.

We rose leisurely, then walked into Lalinde and crossed the river.

We follow a guided dragon route through lovely woods to the Chapelle Saint-Front-de-Colubri.

From here we climb up into the hills where there is a mix of holiday homes and expensive houses scattered around.

We soon found ourselves in the outskirts of Couze et St Front not the plan but not far off our route and we walk back above the river to Lalinde.

We have a nice lunch in the square and then wander back to the site as the thunder rolls around us.

It came to nothing so we had a pleasant evening watching all the bird activity and wondering whether it was the most peaceful campsite we had ever been on.

 

Saturday 3rd September – Lalinde to D’Ossoue Valley

It is sunny and warm as we pack up and leave the site by 8am.

We fill up with petrol and buy some pan au raisin and fruit from the market stall in Lalinde before heading south across country to Tarbes.

We stop in Villarreal and wander into the busy market, have coffee and ate our croissant which was a nice break.

We made good time to Luz and managed to get an expensive not very good lunch at the Hotel Tromoulait overlooking the river before shopping and heading up the D’ Ossoue valley west of Gavarnie.

There seemed fewer people than previous years and ‘our spot’ was empty.

We parked then walked up to barrage before having bacon sandwiches while watching the valley darken with mountains being highlighted by the setting sun before cloud covered the half moon.

Sunday 4th September – D’Ossoue Valley

The cows and their noisy bells haven’t abated since last year!

So after a rather disturbed night when we so enjoy the amazing stars and the Milky Way that fill the sky above us we arise to a sunny and warm morning.

After a leisurely breakfast it was lovely to have peace once we walk up to the Lacs du Montferrat below Pic Pointu which we had discovered the previous year.

It is hard going up and we hope as we will get used to the terrain again it will get easier in the days to come.

The lakes were deserted when we get there for lunch so we have a quick dip then sit enjoying the quiet and watching the gusts of wind rippling the surface of the water.

We enjoy the familiar walk back down with wide views across the mountains.

When we get back to the van the cows have gathered around us their bells still loud but they disperse before we have tea.

We then sit around the fire and watch the moon rising behind the mountains.

Monday 5th September – D’Ossoue Valley

We wait patiently for the sun to rise above the mountains and reach the van to take the chill off the morning.

We get up to find a new herd of cows arriving plus herdsman and dog. He skilfully uses his dog to get the cows over the river and up onto the mountain shoulder before encouraging them back on the other side of the river and into the side valley towards Col de Bernatoire.

In the meantime a herd of sheep are descending on the road being led by three shepherds. It is all go!

We get ourselves sorted for climbing up towards Vignemale. We haven’t climbed it since walking the Pyrenees in 1998!

We had forgotten how hard the climb is. It is very steep in places and very stony.

As we climb up through the narrow valley a cold wind blows down off the icy mountain top and the wind increases. Across the other side of the valley on the mountainside we see some chamois.

By the time we reach the Refuge de Baysselance it begins to hail and we decide that is far enough.

As the hail got heavier Graham manages to get us into the locker room of the refuge to eat. There are a lot of people there staying at the refuge or sheltering as we are doing.

Surrounded by coats, boots, bags and people changing we manage to eat our hard boiled eggs and cheese baguettes, but we must really have looked a pair of old crocks surrounded by all the fit and active! But it was warmer and we had got there.

Going down is easier as long as you concentrate. We pass small caves, Grottes Bellevue, used as shelter in the past now used as an emergency shelter.

The weather has improved the hail stops it gets first cloudy but dry and then with a bit of sun.

Graham’s heel had rubbed on the way up so wasn’t good as the blister had burst and he had also got cramp in his thigh.

Janet had her own problems but in spite of this we made our way slowly but surely down the mountain to the lake below.

We arrive back at the van weary but feeling that we have achieved something.

Tuesday 6th September – D’Ossoue Valley

A terrific thunderstorm overnight that brings back memories of those we have had on family holidays before.
Despite a disturbed night we wake refreshed to the sun gradually reaching the van as it rises in the valley.

As we watch groups of walkers climb up the shoulder towards the Cabane de Lourdes across the valley, we eat a very leisurely breakfast.

After we follow their route up to the Cabane de Lourdes and contour around on the GR10 to the ‘Penguin Pool’.

It is lovely ambling along and as we near the pool we realise we have phone reception so we indulge ourselves with ‘catching up’ (sadly so we’re a lot of walkers around us).

We look down into the valley to watch a helicopter taking materials up to the Refuge Beyssalance at the head of the valley.

Having spent time resting here we decide to head back to the van.

We pamper ourselves washing our bodies and hair in the little gorge near to our campsite before spending some leisure time, Graham playing on his whistle and Janet quilting.

Before an evening meal we find the energy to wander up and investigate the mine portal above us.

We pick up wood for the fire on the way down and cooked and sit around it until it gets dark.

It has been a very restful day.

Wednesday 7th September – D’Ossoue Valley

We wake after a poor night’s sleep to a morning so cold that we have breakfast inside the van.

Remembering how cold we got climbing up to Vignemale we put woolly hats and coats on for the last walk of our stay here.

We walk up to the Barrage d’Ossoue and follow the GR10 around to Cabane de Loudres and up the Vallee de la Canau to the Col de la Bernatoire at 2336m.

We certainly need our extra clothing as we move slowly up the steep grassy path to the zig-zag path that leads to below the Col. Where the wind is gale force and cold.

The circular lake that we so keenly walked down and swam in last year has no enticement today as we find a sheltered spot sheltering from the wind to eat our lunch.

It is an amazing location and the strong wind clears the clouds offering wide mountain views in all directions.

Going down is easier although not much warmer until after the Cabane de Loudres.

We arrive back at the van warmer and even hot. We both wash in the ravine and put clean clothes on! We watch with interest a small bird of prey flying around the rocks up the valley and roosting on a nearby spur.

The sun sets over the mountains at the end of the valley and the cold air sends us into the van for the evening where, with the heater on, we play Miz and Peter’s version of German whist which they had given us many Xmas’s ago.

Thursday 8th September – D’Ossoue Valley to Carteret’s

Although we sleep much better when we awake there is no sun rising in the valley but a layer of cloud, keeping the air cold.

We pack up and gather together out litter which after five days of camping is significant.

We then head down the valley into Gavarnie. We were surprised at how much activity there is as we approach and then enter the town, cars, motor homes and groups of walkers.

On the outskirts of Gedre we dispose of five days worth of rubbish and realise that the main car park is the best place as it has glass recycling as well ordinary waste collection.

We stop in Luz and have coffee and croissants in the square. We take the opportunity to check our emails and the weather which confirms that rain is expected bur should have cleared Cauterets to the west. So we head on to Cauterets to spend our last day walking in the mountains.

We are pleased to find that the campsite Le Cabaliros that we used a few years ago is still there and feels right.

After lunch we wander up the easterly side of the valley to the centre of the town where we look around the church and then treat ourselves to a Ricard.

We then return to the camp site and visit the Supermarché by the site to buy some food.

News came through that the royal family were gathering at Balmoral as the queen is unwell and her death is announced at 18.33. 

96 years old and 70 years on the throne. Truly amazing.

Friday 9th September – Cauterets

The mist gradually clears off the mountain tops as we have a leisurely breakfast.

We sort out the van and head off to the Pont d’Espagne where we park at around half past ten.

We walk up the beautiful Val du Marcadau towards Refuge Wallon following the path through the woods to the east of the river the mist drifting away from the tops revealing the vivid blue sky.

Just before the refuge we take a path south towards la Tête d’Ours a peak at the head of the valley clearly shaped like a bear.

As we approach the lake, below the peak, the path begins to climb steeply so we leave the path and stop at a grassy clearing by a deep pool below a waterfall to have lunch.

In the warmth we strip off and dip in the chilly water and do some exercises to dry off, so good!

We laze about and eat our picnic lunch before walking back down the way we had come and through the pines into the beautiful Marcadau valley.

For no apparent reason other than tripping Janet finds herself hitting the ground scrapping her chin and cutting her lip.

It bleeds dramatically and profusely but luckily there are people passing by who magically produced bandages, tissues, pads etc to mop up the blood and bathe her chin. They are so kind.

After initially thinking she had broken her teeth she realises that apart from her chin, split lip and a sore wrist, she is ok.

We thank all those who had helped and continue carefully on back down the valley to the car park.

After a clean up in the toilets we head back down to the camp site where we shower and sort ourselves out watching vultures soaring above the mountains opposite us.

We have some tea and slowly Janet starts to feel more herself albeit with a prominent red chin and big lip!  We spend a cool evening in the van catching up with the news and watching the remembrance service, celebrating the Queen’s life, held earlier in the day in St Paul’s Cathedral.

 
Saturday 10th September – Cauterets to Col de Trédudon

Up quite early and we have left the camp site by a quarter to nine.

We travel down the valley to Argeles, where we stop and start putting air in our deflating tyre only to find the time we had bought on the air machine had expired. Janet goes off to get some change from the Supermarché by buying some cheese. The cashier would not give her the change she needed and so irate she returned to the van but is soon followed by a lady who realising Janet’s anguish produces some change. So amazingly kind of her. It allows us to check and inflate the rest of the tyres and fill up with petrol.

We make good progress north using autoroutes, at a cost of €63, the most expensive and easily avoidable section being that between Pau to Lardon. We stop en route for pain a raisin and orange juice before heading on north through Bordeaux where an accident just before the Dordogne Bridge slows us down. We find a rest area and stop for a lunch of bread and cheese.

The tyre is not good and needs a bit more air before we head on for a relatively easy drive arriving in Hennebont at seven o’clock. The meal at Le Chat Botte is as nice as always and the journey on to the Col de Trédudon good especially as we managed to fill our ever deflating front left tyre with air again and get some cheap petrol.

Arriving at the Col there is already a motor home parked on the left so we park on the right, being joined by another camper van as we are settling down for the night.

Sunday 11th September – Col de Trédudon

We don’t sleep well and Graham is up at six saying he will have to change the tyre as it is completely flat.
On rain soaked ground he starts doing that, taking off the spare. wheel and undoing the nuts on the wheel.
Unfortunately having removed the nuts he cannot get the wheel off despite some hammering and heaving, waking the occupants of the van next to us in the process.

Time is moving on so at around 7.15 he abandons removing it and Janet plugs in the charger which pumps the tyre up enough for us to drive to Roscoff. We get there at half past eight and are soon on the ferry with the pump ready to use when we get to Plymouth.
Strangely after six hours when we arrive all seems well with the tyre, phew! After a fairly long wait to get off the boat we have a good journey home.

We sort the van by six o’clock in time for Graham, as Parish Chairman, to go and read the proclamation that Prince Charles is now King Charles III. There are about fifty people from the village there around the memorial for the event which is nice. Graham reads it well.