World Wide Webbs

2021 The Heights of England and Wales

 

Friday 9th July – Home to Mendip

We are up early and spend an hour at the allotment before getting sorted to go away for two weeks. We leave just before five and meet up with Peter and 14 of Amelie’s friends camping at Longbottom Farm on the Mendips.

Amelie and co. are happily messing around putting up their tent and making a fire.

 

 

 

 

 

 

In the gloom we join Peter and finish off the rest of their chilli and rice and sat around chatting until, around 10.30 when we returned to where, at Amelie’s request we had pitched in a different field near to the toilets.

 

The site has filled up for the weekend whilst we had been with the others and it was noisy with lots of family groups sitting around.

 

Somehow because we are so tired it didn’t seem to matter and we slept ok.

 

Saturday 10th July – Mendip

The day started wet and then turned dry but cloudy. 

We have breakfast and join Peter standing in the light rain whilst the Amelie’s lot pottered around.
They sorted themselves out and went off to walk to the fish and chip shop at Churchill. 

Peter joined us for bacon rolls and then he went off to shop and pick up the kids. 

We walk up to the Beacon Hill trig point (300m) along forest tracks.

We then chilled and joined him for left over BBQ food.

 

Sunday 11th July – Mendip to Snowdonia

Misty then RainPeter and Amelie’s lot had had a good night as did we. We pack up and are on road by eight o’ clock, cutting across to Weston and on to the M5 to the second Severn crossing, and on via Newport to Raglan and then take the A40 and A479 to Builth Wells.

From here we go over the mountains on the B4518 to Llanidloes and the spectacular reservoir of Llyn Clywedog before dropping down to the A40 skirting around Machynlleth and on north to Dolgellau and Beddgelert.

We book in at the Forest camp site and are allowed to choose an empty plot hat suits us. By this time it was pouring with rain and in bad grace we found a plot we could agree upon. The Van Camping area is set alongside forest tracks and under trees. It feels busy whilst not crowded and the facilities area good.

It was still only three o’clock so we went for a walk along the cycle path through the forest to Beddgelert. Here we wander around and have some beer in a cafe.

We return to the van in the rain.  England is playing Italy in the European Cup finals. We managed to watch the game on an Ipad whilst making something to eat.

 

Monday 12th July – Snowdonia

We cycle to Beddgelert and catch the bus to Porthmadog. We walk across the estuary, alongside the Ffestiniog Railway, to Portmeirion. The light on the water was amazing and it is exciting when the train goes past and we see the wading birds, geese and egrets in the estuary.

Portmeirion is crowded with damp tourists like us. We wander around the pastiche buildings enjoying the view over the water.

The place is interesting and we see how one man’s hobby of creating an Italian style settlement with tongue in cheek features results is an attractive visit.

 

We walk back down to Porthmadog where we have lunch in a very Welsh canteen style cafe, before returning to Beddgelert and the Goat Hotel for a very reasonable pot of tea for two (£2.50)

We cycle back to the van where we have a new toy to play with. Jeff and Sally had given a tailgate awning as they had got rid of their VW and with great difficulty we erect it.

We then light a fire and cook lamb chops, which we had bought in a butcher’s in Porthmadog, for tea.

Tuesday 13th July- Snowdonia

The day starts brighter with high cloud as we walk up from the camp site to Moel Hebog, a mountain to the south with a scramble up to the summit ridge. Here at 783 metres we can see the coast and the Llynn Peninsular.

We have lunch at the top and descend on a steep grassy slope to Bwlch Merllion a narrow gorge that leads up onto Moel yr Ogof.

 

We follow the ridge westward climbing up to Moel Lefn following a diagonal path that avoids the summit.

We descend steeply through a slate rubble landscape to an old quarry where we cut rather unsatisfactorily to a forest path and make our way back to the site calling in at the useless over priced camp shop!

We felt we had done a step to far! After a tasty tea of chicken curry and flat breads we are revived.

 

 

Wednesday 14th July – Snowdonia

We get ourselves ready for another day walk and cycle up the road to Pitt’s Head, where we lock our bikes and walk north east to join the Rhys Ddu Snowdon Path.

 

We make our way along a steep ridge heading towards Snowdon to just below the summit at Bwlch Main (938m) where we turn south.

The Clogwyn Du path is quite challenging so it is nice to be descending the ridge.

As the cloud comes and goes the horrors of congestion and crowdedness at the summit of Snowdon are revealed behind us!

We stop half way down the ridge to enjoy the wide views to the south and have our lunch before descending to an old the quarry.

The quarry is full of old mining works and as the cloud comes and goes the waste piles and tramway tracks are spooky.

 

 

We walk west and regain our original path which takes us south to where we had left the bikes.

 

The days walk has stretched us enough and we are pleased that we had no intention of going to the top of Snowdon! Cycling back was great, all downhill. We showered and then sat and read in the sunshine by the van until tea time and bed.

Thursday 15th July – Snowdonia to Yorkshire Dales

We get up and in the sunshine have left the campsite by nine o’clock picking up coffee, croissants and bread from reception. We drive down the road to Lyn Cwellyn where we have our breakfast before continuing on our journey.

The North Wales Coast Road (A55) from Caernarfon is not an attractive road but it takes us quickly eastwards to the flat English Plain at Chester. Our first stop after we cross the Mersey and head north is Nelson where we stop and shop before going on to find our campsite at Woodend just outside of Austwick.

Wood End a Camping and Caravan site is fully booked for the weekend but as we are on a grassy pitch off the main site we can be fitted in. A quiet site with a five minute walk to the facilities by the farm it suggests a slower more peaceful experience to the bustle and clatter of the site at Beddgelert.

 

The landscape is a complete contrast to Snowdonia. The high hills around us are smooth and undulating. From our pitch we are looking north to Ingleborough and the limestone strewn grasslands of the Dales.

The weather is good the sun shining in a clear sky. We laze around and then walk into the village and have a pint at the pub.

 

This is not an easy process, first having to download an app to order and pay giving your table number. You then wait for the arrival of your drink —- or someone else’s if you get the table number wrong!

Back at the site we make an omelette for tea and enjoyed our first sunset of the holiday.

Friday 16th July – Yorkshire Dales

We wake to a day that becomes progressively sunny and hot.

After a leisurely breakfast we make some lunch and walk out of the back of the campsite across the fields. We are soon wending our way over fields and on tracks soon arriving at Feizor where there’s a very busy upmarket cafe.

We continue on over the limestone hills, 320m, to Stackhouse and down into the Ribble Valley which is much busier.

 

We walk alongside the river which is broad at this point slowing through fields. But soon it gets shallower and runs noisily over stones and rocks as the valley narrows.

We stop to eat and Graham has dip in the river just south of Stainforth.

Just upstream from here the river is channelled through a narrow chasm where it crashes over huge boulders, this is the Stainforth Force.

This is a very popular place to swim, with deep pools and stony beaches and the hot sunny weather makes it even more appealing.

Deciding we have done enough we walk up out of the valley on to the Penine Bridleway that lead us above the river valley to the Dry Rigg Quarry where it takes us back to our camp site.

We discuss our route up onto Ingleborough tomorrow and decide the bikes would not worth taking as we can access the moorland easier without them.

So after a short rest we decide to cycle to Clapham which was a good ride not too far and the hotel bar there was much more user friendly when it came to ordering drinks.

 
Saturday 17th July – Yorkshire Dales

Having worked out yesterday where we want to go we pack our rucksacks and are on our way before nine o’clock. Everything is so accessible and all we have to do is walk across the road, up to the settlement of Wharfe and up towards the moor.

Just beyond Wharfe we cross Austwick Beck a small limestone stream that is held back by a dam of stones to create a Water Dub, used to dip sheep in.

We make a mental note of it for our return before we head on up to Crummack Farm where the track climbs out onto the open moor. Here we have wide views on Ingleborough rising ahead of us across the grassy limestone pavement.

We follow the Dales High Way north then west and up onto the wide ridge summit of Ingleborough, 724m.

Here there are lots of people and groups of teenagers doing the Duke of Edinburgh award. We sit on the western end and head down onto the shoulder for lunch.

Thankfully there is a breeze as it is very hot. After lunch we head down to Gaping Gill and then east crossing Clapham Beck and following around to Crummock Farm and our original path.

 

We are eagerly awaiting a dip at the Water Dub. As we arrive a couple who have already had a dip are leaving so we take their place and skinny dip. It is lovely and cool just to sit in the water and cool off.

 

As we get dressed another group arrive and we hope they will enjoy the experience although two mature adults with a young couple look as though they might find it awkward but we hope the younger guy is up for it.

We make our way back to the van picking raspberries as we go. Once back at the van the heat was dissipated by a cool breeze so we had a nice evening outside with our usual fire/BBQ!

Sunday 18th July – Dales to Lake District

We leave our lovely site in hot sunshine around ten o’clock and travel due west on the A65 to the M6 and head north to Penrith where we shop before driving to the campsite, Gillside in upper Glenridding.

Our plot beside the river is a rough level stony area between the riverside, the main path up to Helvellyn and the toilets.

We parked up below another van had lunch and then went for a wander around Glenridding. The small village was packed but as soon as we climbed onto the hills we were on our own.

After tea we stood in the river to cool off and read with the general chatter of a teenage group providing a nice murmur to the bubbling river.

 
Monday 19th July – Lake District

Met Office issues Severe Heat Warning for SW England, Wales and the Midlands

COVID restrictions end in England but lots of caution is needed as numbers spiral.

We are woken at six o’clock by a group of backpacking teenagers going off on their challenges.

We have breakfast in a warm sunshine and then we too are off at nine o’clock cycling to Patterdale where we park the bikes at Rooking.

We then walk up to Boredale Hause an area we are familiar with and one in which we have made mistakes in terms of route before.

Today its simple we are just going straight up to Place Fell. The views on our climb up and from the top are stunning.

The humidity and warmth is such that the summit of Place fell is swarming with flies!

We continue along the ridge and climb down from High Dodd to the water at Scalehow Wood.

From here we proceed along the lake side, forgetting just how up and down the path is, before stopping to have lunch and, as we are so hot, a much needed swim.

We carry on around Silver Crag and past the camp site at Side Farm which is very crowded. On completing the circuit we cycle back to Glenridding and have an ice cream with the crowds on the side of Ullswater before returning to the campsite.

We find a nice grassy plot away from the hustle and bustle of the camp site and move up there.

What a relief to be away from the stony car park, noise and bustle.

On going up to the farm office to explain our decision they offer a bottle of chilled fresh orange juice as compensation for moving off an electric emplacement. It is such a good exchange.

We spent the rest of the evening campsite watching with much delight, much happier than the previous day.

Tuesday 20th July – Lake District

 

After a quiet night and a gentle breakfast we decide to cycle to the Grisedale Valley where we leave our bikes.

 

A broad stony track leads us gently up to Grisedale Forest where we climb steely up to Grisedale Tarn.

We enjoy a swim before making the decision to skirt around Fairfield and climb up to St Sunday Crag where we can eat our lunch is a breeze.

It was hot on top and the ridge down from St Sunday Crag looking out over Place Fell and Ullswater is a long steep drag but worth it for the views.

We cycle back to the busy lake beach and swam in the muddy water, quite a culture shock!

An ice cream and a satisfying top up on basic ingredients at the local shop complete our adventure.

The camp site and a cold beer are very welcome.

Wednesday 21st July – Lake District

Our 48th Wedding Anniversary

We are up early for our last day it is hot and sunny. After breakfast we cycle to Hartsop and climb up to Hayeswater where we can swim.

It was very warm and we debated going up to The Knott, High Street and then descend back via Hartsop Dodd but we have another swim instead.

 

 

 

 

 

We make our way back to the bikes and try and return to Glenridding another way along the bridle path on the eastern side of the valley. It only takes us half way and we are back on the main road.

We go down to the lake for another ice cream and back to the van as it starts raining.

This rain lasts for about forty five minutes and then the sun shone and the heat increased. Our site watching took a turn when the large family of father, partner and two children below us are visited by the father’s ex-wife and mother which seems to provoke a very middle class family row!

Lots of new groups have arrived on the site including an EXPLORE type group with a very bossy leader their individual tents taking over a whole section of the site. The place is buzzing, good time to depart.

A lovely holiday made perfect by the weather

Thursday 22nd July – Lake District to Home

We are up early along with everyone else and leave the campsite before eight o’clock. The traffic is not too bad and we are on the M6 by nine o’clock stopping at a very hot Gloucester Services for a bite to eat before arriving in Bristol about two o’clock.

After shopping on North Street we walk with Kelly and Ellis to Sprinkles where we have an ice cream and meet up Peter.  We walked back around the harbour  and Kelly makes a Gnocchi dish which we share together in a very hot garden.

We leave around half past eight and are home around eleven thirty to a clean and tidy house vacated by the Bjerregaards only a few hours before!